Tuscany

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Menu Della Cena, Maggio 3-16, 2004

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WINE WINE MENU WINE CHEF REGION WINE

VINI  DELLA  TOSCANNA

Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Teruzzi e Puthod 2002

Among the first DOCG white wines, this benchmark Vernaccia from the hillside town of San Gimignano is crisp and delicate with a floral fragrance and flavors of almonds. Its medium body, balanced acidity and freshness make it a great match with the Branzino.
$3.25 half glass $6.50 glass $24 bottle

Vermentino di Bolgheri
Antinori Guado al Tasso 2002

This medium-bodied white, produced from 100% Vermentino grapes cultivated in Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast near Livorno, is one of Antinori's newest and most exciting dry white wines. It is full-flavored and mouthfilling and has a long, crisp finish. A great pairing with the Mezzelune.
$5.25 half glass $10.50 glass $40 bottle

Chianti Classico
Il Fornaio 2002

This single-vineyard Chianti Classico is produced from grapes cultivated in the hills above Siena in Il Fornaio’s own “Casanuova” vineyard. Rich and earthy with cherry, violet and vanilla flavors, it has wonderful complexity and great balance which makes it a very nice match for the Pappardelle.

Morellino di Scansano
Le Pupille 2003

This delicious, medium-bodied red is produced from predominantly Morellino (aka Sangiovese) with Alicante and Malvasia Nera grapes grown in the southern, warmer area of Tuscany known as Scansano. It is full of ripe, cherry and red berry aromas and concentrated flavors of ripe berries and spice and is an interesting match for the Risotto.
$4.75 half glass $9.50 glass $36 bottle

Plenum "Tertius"
Dievole 1999

Each year, our good friend Mario di Dievole chooses a wine from another country to blend with his own to create a new version of Plenum, a unique proprietary wine. This third ("tertius") in the series blends 50% Dievole Sangiovese with 50% Tempranillo from Spain's Munoz winery. Earthy aromas and flavor, with ripe plum and cherry fruit with warm spices make it a great match with the Bistecca.
$5.50 half glass $10.75 glass $41 bottle

 

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WINE WINE MENU WINE CHEF REGION

Growing Up Tuscan

I have spent most of my life in Tuscany and am reminded of my roots every day I am in the kitchen. When I use olive oil I think of the first press of olives from my grandmother’s farm, and how we poured it on bread still warm from the oven. Preparing anzanella always reminds me of the summertime when the tomatoes would ripen and we picked them from the garden along with fragrant basil to make this unique Tuscan-style bread salad. When I receive my fresh produce in the morning in Del Mar, I can’t help but taste my memories of Tuscany.

Chef Nicola Calamari

I grew up in the town of Botticino, up on a mountain not far from Lucca. My father had a paper mill, where there was a lot of water and many chestnut trees. There were ten people in our family and my father’s mother cooked for us every day. I still remember the crepes made from chestnut flour she would fill with fresh ricotta made by friends who raised cows and sheep. Every day she would prepare a meal different from the day before.

When I was about ten I went to live with my mother and grandmother near Florence. My grandmother owned a farm in San Gimignano and most of the food we ate was produced there. I had only her olive oil and wine until I moved to the United States. Every Sunday we would have a big family dinner, using ingredients raised on the farm. A special treat for dessert was vin santo. The vin santo that came from the farm was unbelievable – velvety and sweet. When I was older, I would dip biscotti into this sweet wine and lose track of how many cookies I had eaten!

Tuscany is often called the heartland of Italy. It is where the essence of Italy is strongest, where the food  is cooked in the simplest manner, without any fuss.

My first job was as a dishwasher in a trattoria in Florence when I was sixteen years old. It was a typical trattoria: small, with only two cooks and one dishwasher. It seemed that one day I was washing dishes, then one day I was cooking. I prepared and cooked everything on the menu; that was how I learned to cook.

I finished school at eighteen and got a job as a pasta chef in another trattoria in Florence. Carmen, a woman who cooked there, taught me a valuable lesson I remember to this day: make each pasta dish the best, even when you have a lot of customers to serve, not to be sloppy, and to do the right thing every time.

I owned a restaurant in Florence, much like a small pub. An American tourist came in to eat and we became friendly. She ended up staying in Italy with me and later became my wife. We moved to the United states in 1986 to be married, where my first job was in an old-style Italian restaurant in Los Angeles. But I didn’t understand what they were doing, coming from a trattoria. I liked simple food, not lobster and veal together on one plate in a rich sauce. I realized how strong my Tuscan roots were and began to cook in restaurants where I could express them. When I first visited Del Mar, and saw this beautiful restaurant, I said to my wife, “I want to work at Il Fornaio!” I began to work at Il Fornaio in Del Mar in January of 1994, where I continue to cook in the Tuscan style.

Bread is very important in Tuscany. I love bread, so it is wonderful that at Il Fornaio we make our own bread fresh every day. Be sure to try our Schiacciata con Uva, a focaccia with raisins and rosemary. To me it captures some of the best flavors of Tuscany!

I often think about my Tuscan roots and how proud I am of the history and influence of my home region. I am always surprised to see so many people try to copy Tuscan food. Maybe I am a little naive - I have always cooked these foods, always eaten them. I don’t really know any other way. Most important to me is the freshness of the product, the quality and the simplicity. I try to find the flavor in the product, not in what you add to it. That is my philosophy, it’s very simple! I hope I am able to share this with you through the foods you eat tonight. Buon Appetito!

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Tuscan Travel Tips

LODGING

Fattoria Dievole (Chianti). Founded in 1090, Dievole is Chianti’s oldest winery and is home to Il Fornaio’s vineyard. Owner Mario Schwenn has recently remodeled the guest house to
accommodate travelers. An exquisite

map of Tuscany

setting in the heart of Chianti. Mention Il Fornaio when you book, and Mario will take great care of you. phone: 557/322613

LUNCH OR DINNER

Sostanza. One of the best trattoria’s in Florence and is a must for lunch or diner. Very old, white tiled with six tables, like a butcher shop. Sostanza is the place to go to see how "it used to be done". The menu provides selections of authentic Florentine cuisine. The food is great – simple hearty portions expertly prepared. It’s the best in Florence and you can assured of a memorable experience. phone: 55-212-691

DINNER

Da Delfina. This restaurant is a must and a special treat. It is about a 20 minute drive from Florence located in the small village of Artimino. If your mood is to visit the Tuscan countryside, you will not find a better restaurant. Their menu changes daily; everything is fresh and perfectly prepared. The setting is rustic and the view is outstanding. In the summer time, you can enjoy cocktails on the small piazza. phone: 558/718074

SIGHT SEEING

David sculpture by Michelangelo (Florence). Carved from a single mable slab, David is considered by many as one of the greatest sculptures ever created. Galleria dell'Accademia

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Coming June 7th-20th  The Food and Wine of Sardegna

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www.ilfornaio.com