Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Teruzzi e Puthod, Tuscany, 2001
bottle $23 glass $6.25 1/2 glass $3.25

A dry white wine from the hillside town of San Gimignano is crisp with a delicate floral fragrance and flavors of almonds. Its medium body and lively fruit make it an ideal complement to the Polpettine di Granchio and Pesce Bianco in Teglia.

Barbera d’Asti
Michele Chiarlo, Piemonte, 2000
bottle 25.00 glass 6.75 1/2 glass 3.50

The Chiarlo family has been growing grapes in adjacent Piemonte for seven generations and Michele Chiarlo is one of the most respected wine producers in the region today. This red wine with berry flavors and gentle tannins is produced from Barbera grapes, one of Italy’s most widely planted varietals. Its medium body and excellent balance make it a nice match with Pansoti alle Noci and the Braciola di Maiale.

Umberto Pala
Chef-Partner, Il Fornaio

Umberto Pala grew up in Bergamo, Lombardia, Liguria’s neighboring region. He spent childhood vacations in Liguria, and it was there that he first discovered his love of seafood.

Umberto’s cooking career began at age thirteen when he attended culinary school. His father had always cooked at home, and a cousin had recently completed the culinary course work. The influence of these two men in Umberto’s life sent him on his way.

Now, as Chef-Partner of Il Fornaio in San Jose, Umberto is in charge of the kitchen but has learned to appreciate the support he receives from his staff each day. Sous Chefs Raul Garcia and Bruce Reily enable Umberto to remain creative and keep the kitchen running smoothly.

Of Liguria’s style of cooking, Umberto says, “I like the quality of lightness and understated flavors you find in this region. I love to cook seafood, and the Ligurian table almost always showcases products from the sea. But one of my favorite reasons for cooking the foods of this region is that it always makes me think of my childhood vacations. Buon appetito!”

The shining, sun-drenched Mediterranean carves a boomerang strip out of the northern Italian coastline, dominating Ligurian traditions, culture and cuisine. The food of Liguria is defined by its relationship to the sea: a bounty of shellfish finds its way to almost every table; sailors returning from long journeys yearn for freshness and strong flavors.

The daily tasks of Ligurians have not changed for generations. Each day, up and down the region’s coast, an abundance of shellfish is harvested. Fresh mussels of dizzying variety can be found in most every local restaurant and are prepared many different ways. Many Ligurians prefer their mussels served raw, with a splash of lemon and fresh pepper. Ligurians consume enormous amounts of seafood, ranging from prawns and shrimp to crab, calamari, seabass and swordfish. This menu fatures a a sampling of seafood available on the Ligurian coast.

Much of the food of Liguria is the food of the returning seafarer. Voyages would last for months, and the food was bland and repetitive. Often, the cargo was spices; the constant, intense smell became offensive, so few spices appear in Ligurian cooking. Fresh herbs were not to be had on these journeys, and so were craved upon the return to land. Basil was preferred above all. Pesto, a combination of basil, garlic, pinenuts and olive oil, has always been revered in Genoa, so much so that the saying goes “if the pesto is no good, don’t change the pesto, change the cook”. We feature pesto in artichoke soup, and tossed with small potato dumplings, and with grilled swordfish.

The food of Liguria is the food of celebrating the return of loved ones. Since the return of seafaring Ligurians was anticipated for months or years, “welcome home” celebrations became an important part of Liguria’s heritage. This celebratory tendency accounts for the prevalence of stuffed dishes in the Ligurian repertoire, items that take time and great care to prepare. We hope that you enjoy these dishes —Pansotti alle Noci and Braciola di Maiale ai Carciofi— as we enjoy and celebrate both the spirit of Liguria and your return to Il Fornaio.