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Fiorenzo was fourteen when he first worked in a professional kitchen. It was in a gastronomia, where you buy prepared food to take home. The presentation can be quite elaborate, and it was this element that attracted Fiorenzo. He worked part-time in the gastronomia for four years. Fiorenzo continued his studies in architecture but never really left the kitchen. In 1996 a friend called with a job opportunity in a Palm Springs restaurant. Fiorenzo made the trip, thinking he might stay for a year or so. Now he is in charge of his own kitchen in Il Fornaio at Green Valley Ranch in Henderson, Nevada. What makes the food of Calabria stand out is that it is the spiciest food in Italy, Fiorenzo explains. The eggplant tapenade (in the Bruschetta di Melanzane) and the side of sauteed potatoes (served with the Scaloppine di Maiale and Involtino di Spada), are typical of spicy Calabrian dishes. And while the food of the region is very lively, it is still quite traditional. My parents and grandparents are from Calabria, so growing up I was surrounded by the traditions of the Calabrian kitchen. The lasagne you see on this menu is a dish my Grandmother made on special occasions, or on Sunday when she had extra time for the preparation. The bruschetta is also from my grandmother. When I make these dishes I am able to stay connected to the heart of my familys traditional cooking heritage. You will find lots of involtini (bundled food) in Calabria. The region is poor and this is an inexpensive way to dress up simple food. Involtini di Pesce Spada (swordfish steaks rolled with caciocavallo cheese and seasoned breadcrumbs and sauteed in olive oil) is a wonderful example of bundled food. End your meal with Budino di Ricotta (ricotta cake with chocolate
pieces, raisins, lemon and orange zest). The sweetness of this cake
is the perfect complement to the spicy food of Calabria! |
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Picture Italy and its boot shape. Now travel down to the toe of the boot: this is Calabria. The terrain is spectacular - mountainous with striking coastal vistas. There is not much arable land, but olives, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and citrus thrive. Little meat is produced; lamb and pork are the most common. Because livestock is so scarce, there are few cheeses, but one stands out and is used profusely - caciocavallo (KAH-cho ka-VAHL-loh). The name refers to the shape of this mild cheese, as balls of the newly-made cheese are tied to either ends of a string to age, as if they could be slung over a horse (cacio=cheese, cavallo=horse). The surrounding seas contribute greatly to an otherwise restricted diet. Swordfish are caught in large numbers in the Strait of Messina between April and July as they migrate. Calabrians do not go for rich desserts, and wine production is small. They do, however, love spicy food, using the simplest of ingredients. Benvenuti in Calabria! |
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Coming November 4-17:
The food and wine of
Emilia-Romagna
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