Each month, our restaurants feature the bread, food and wine of a different region of Italy. This month, we travel to Molise, a little known region in central Italy, along the Adriatic Sea.
	Dinner Menu . May 4 - 17 pane PANE CASERECCIO ALLO ZAFFERANO Rustic potato-saffron bread, compliments of the bakers of Il Fornaio. (Available at the Bakery to take home.) antipasti ZUPPA DI FARINACEI Garbanzo, lentil and navy bean soup with barley and prosciutto $5.95 Montepulciano CARCIOFINI Cacio e uova Battered and deep-fried baby artichokes in white wine and lemon sauce $6.50 Verdicchio PORCHETTA Slices of cured pork with garlic-rosemary pizzetta $5.50 Montepulciano ARROSTICINI Rosemary-lamb skewers, white bean puree and lamb demiglace $6.95 Montepulciano primi FIADONI DI PIETRO Homemade spinach pasta stuffed with whitefish and salmon seasoned with brandy and herbs, tossed with shrimp and asparagus in a shrimp-saffron sauce $11.95 Verdicchio PASTA ALL'ISOLANA Homemade pasta with mussels, clams, borlotti beans, basil, rosemary, tomatoes and white wine $11.95 Verdicchio RISOTTO ALLA PAPERA MUTA Arborio rice, roasted duck, radicchio, shallots and red wine $11.50 Montepulciano GNOCCHI CON SALSICCIA PICCANTE Potato dumplings with sausage, mushrooms, tomato sauce, red pepper and white wine $11.50 Montepulciano secondi POLLO ALLA MOLISANA Chicken braised with porcini mushrooms, onions and marsala; served with eggplant-potato gratin $13.25 Verdicchio AGNELLO ALLA BRACE Grilled sliced lamb served over arugula with tomatoes and shaved pecorino cheese; with eggplant-potato gratin $16.95 Montepulciano BRANZINO AL FORNO Chilean seabass baked in the oven with artichokes, potatoes, cherry tomatoes and white wine $17.50 Verdicchio dolci CROSTATA DI FRUTTA Tart shell filled with fresh raspberries, blueberries, strawberries and pastry cream $5.50
	VERDICCHIO CLASSICO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI, Villa Beatrice, Marche, 1996 This light-bodied dry white wine is produced from verdicchio grapes cultivated around the town of Jesi in the foothills of the Apennines. It has layers of citrus and vanilla in the aromas and crisp apple flavors, making it an excellent pairing with shellfish, fish and light pasta dishes. $21.50 bottle $5.50 glass $2.75 half glass MONTEPULCIANO D'ABRUZZO, Miglianico, Abruzzo, 1995 Produced from a single vineyard estate called Montupoli, this Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a medium-bodied dry red wine with richly fruited cherry aromas and flavors of blackberry, violet and spice. It is a perfect match with roasted meat, game and hearty pasta dishes. $22.00 bottle $5.75 glass $3.00 half glass

Is there any Italian region as obscure as Molise (moh-LEE-say)? Even the tiny city-state of San Marino receives more attention from tourists and guidebooks. Yet despite this total lack of recognition, Molise has a culinary style that is interesting and diverse. And I think after you taste some of these dishes, you will share my opinion that the foods of Molise are worth remembering. I grew up in Abruzzo, the region immediately to the north of Molise. My hometown of Polombaro is less than 50 km from the border. Before Italy united, Abruzzo and Molise were considered part of each other. The regions share similar geography: both border the Adriatic Sea and neither has a coastline with many natural harbors. Ancient Greeks ignored this central part of Italy in favor of more easily navigated Southern regions like Puglia and Sicily. They were the first of many international travellers who have missed out on some of Italy's best food. The mountainous terrain roughly divides the cuisine of Molise into two parts: the seaside foods, which feature the fresh seafood of the Adriatic, and interior dishes, which combine the harvest of the fertile soil with meat from grazing animals. Yet Molise cooks use meat sparingly. More often than not vegetables and cheese take center stage on the plate. Mushrooms are found all over the hilly countryside and are featured in Pollo alla Molisana, a typical "interior" dish. Molisans are fond of strong flavors regardless of the dish. You will find abundant spices and herbs in almost everything. From the garlic-rosemary pizzetta served with the Porchetta to the basil, parsley, rosemary and crushed red pepper in the Pasta all'Isolana, Molisans enjoy many flavors in a single dish. This mixture of flavors makes you feel like you have enjoyed many things in a single sitting. The coastal cuisine of the area also combines a number of diverse ingredients to create a unique flavor experience. In the Fiadoni di Pietro, shrimp, lobster, salmon and whitefish are all part of the recipe for this stuffed pasta. The ingredients in the Branzino al Forno, seabass, artichokes, cherry tomatoes and white wine are all baked together to create a wonderful blending of flavors. Molise is not what would be called a wealthy region; there is little industry other than the local specialty, the manufacture of church bells. But the lack of attention doesn't seem to bother the people I know from Molise. They seem pretty content to enjoy the fruit of the sea and the harvests of their forests all by themselves. But tonight we shine the spotlight on this quiet region, and I hope you enjoy our visit to Molise. Buon Appetito! Coming June 1 - 14: THE FOOD AND WINE OF SICILY 1998 Festa Regionale Calendar

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