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Picture Italy and its boot shape. Now travel down to the toe of the boot: this is Calabria. The terrain is spectacular - mountainous with striking coastal vistas. There is not much arable land, but olives, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and citrus thrive. Little meat is produced; lamb and pork are the most common. Because livestock is so scarce, there are few cheeses, but one stands out and is used profusely - caciocavallo (KAH'-cho ka-VAHL'-loh). The name refers to the shape of this mild cheese, as balls of the newly-made cheese are tied to either ends of a string to age, as if they could be slung over a horse (cacio=cheese, cavallo=horse). The surrounding seas contribute greatly to an otherwise restricted diet. Swordfish are caught in large numbers in the Strait of Messina between April and July as they migrate. Calabrians do not go for rich desserts, and wine production is small. They do, however, love spicy food, using the simplest of ingredients. Benvenuti in Calabria!

. uigi Bomparola was born in Calabria, with four older brothers and a younger sister. Although he moved from the region when he was six years old, the food that the family eats at their reunions is traditional Calabrian fare. The region still has a strong pull for him, even from as far away as Las Vegas, Nevada. Luigi began cooking at age eight or nine, after spending summers at camp with terrible food. "I began to wonder how difficult it could be to cook and started experimenting at the kitchen at home. My mother was quite happy about this, because I began to take care of things myself in the kitchen." He started cooking for his family at age 13 and by 14 was working in the family restaurant, making all the pizzas. By age 17 he had graduated to pastas and risotto and was much more involved in the activity in the kitchen. Luigi came to visit a brother working in a restaurant in San Diego. When he met his wife, he made California his home and started working at Il Fornaio in Del Mar as Senior Sous Chef. He then became Chef of Il Fornaio in Beverly Hills and now is in charge of the kitchen of Il Fornaio in Las Vegas, at the New York-New York Hotel and Casino. He reflects on the food of Calabria for this Regional Menu: "What makes the food of Calabria stand out is that it is the spiciest food in Italy. From the special olive oil we pour on the soup (Zuppa di riso e Ceci) to the pepper flakes that are sprinkled into dishes, the food is really lively. But do not be afraid to try it, everything is full of flavor. "In Calabria we cook with a lot of vegetables, especially beans and eggplant, and pasta, as this is what is available locally. Soup is a staple in the Calabrian diet Ð this "zuppa" with rice and garbanzo beans was one of my favorites as a child. "You will find lots of involtini ("bundled" food) in Calabria. The region is not affluent and this is an inexpensive way to dress up simple food. Rollata d'Agnello (leg of lamb rolled with rosemary, sage, garlic and parsley) is one example of this old tradition. Even the dessert, Tronchetto Natalizio (sponge cake rolled with chocolate pastry cream and toasted nuts) is made more special in this same way. And it's the perfect way to end your dinner in my native region of Calabria! "Buon Appetito!"