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Coming February 1-14:
THE FOOD AND WINE OF TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE
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The cooking of Lombardia is primarily the cooking of Milan, the region’s capital. Milan is industrious, and has always prospered throughout its history, so Milanese cooking tends to be robust and substantial. It also happens to be one of the most elegant styles of cooking you will find in all of Italy. Cream and butter are used to finish off dishes, truffles are readily available, soft creamy cheeses are used instead of drier grating cheeses and there seems to be a de-emphasis on tomatoes.

While Milan has such a cosmopolitan atmosphere, it still has the strong influences of an agricultural region. The Po River Valley runs right through Milan; both corn and arborio rice are grown here. In addition, you have the proximity of the Swiss Alps, which supplies excellent beef and game. These are just some of the ingredients that make up the classic dishes of Lombardia.

Lombardia is well known for many cheeses, the most famous being gorgonzola, a creamy blue cheese made from cow’s milk. Gnocchi al gorgonzola (spinach-potato dumplings in gorgonzola cream) features this flavorful cheese. The riso in Risotto alla Vecchia Milano (with saffron and porcini mushrooms) is arborio rice, and grows abundantly in the Po River Valley. It is the preferred rice for the compact style of risotto popular in Lombardia, Piemonte and Emilia-Romagna. Polenta, made from cornmeal, is another staple of the Lombardian kitchen; in fact, it has practically reached a cult status, with festivals honoring it in many of the northern regions.

Perhaps one of the most recognized classic dishes from Lombardia is Osso Buco in Gremolata (veal shank braised with vegetables and herbs). The vegetables served with the osso buco are cut very fine and even, not rustic like in Emilia-Romagna. Another classic dish, Costoletta alla Milanese (breaded and sauteed veal chop), is mimicked by Cappella di Fungo alla Milanese where a large portobello mushroom takes the place of the veal.

Finish your meal with taleggio cheese, honey and walnut bread before moving on to Bavarese all’Amaretto (amaretto cream and sponge cake). This elegant dessert features the almond-flavored liqueur, originating in the town of Saronno, just north of Milan.

EAT: Ristorante Vittoria Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII 21, Bergamo. Tel. 035.218060. Fancy, with new Italian cuisine. Trattoria da Ornella Via Gombito 15, Bergamo. Tel. 035.232736. Traditional local cuisine, located in the upper old part of the city.

VISIT and eat: Peck (Milan). Founded in 1892 by a Czechoslovak named Franz Peck, Peck is one of the word's most elegant delicatessens and specialty shops. Be sure to visit its Casa del Formaggio (House of Cheese) where hundreds of cheeses from Italy and around the world are offered. There are five shops plus a restaurant all within one block. The restaurant is at Via Victor Hugo 4.

SEE: Grotte di Catullo, Lake Garda Sirmione, a peninsula along Lake Garda, is the site of Grotto di Catullo, home to the Roman poet Catullus. Catullus often hosted Julius Caesar before he became emperor. The ruins date back to the first century b.c., and are set among exquisite olive groves.

Living in the United States has allowed Alberto to rediscover Italian food. “Cooking in many regions of Italy gives me great perspective on what Italian food is, yet still I come back to the fullness of Lombardian cooking. With its rich quality, you can really, truly enjoy a big, satisfying meal. My American friends call this “comfort food”, absolutely perfect for these cold winter evenings. In my home we often ended these dinners with a cheese course before bringing out the dessert. Taleggio drizzled with honey will leave you with the true flavor of Lombardia. Buon Appetito!