Osvaldo Tomatis was born near the capital of Piemonte, Liguria’s neighboring region. His family owned a trattoria (a family style restaurant) where Osvaldo began working as a dishwasher when he was 14 years old. By the time he was 16, he was cooking under the strict tutelage of his mother and grandmother.
In 1979 Osvaldo travelled to Los Angeles to visit a friend for a few months and found he liked living in the United States. Using his experience from the family trattoria, he cooked in several Italian restaurants before joining Il Fornaio in San Jose as Chef-Partner in April of 1995. He is now the Chef-Partner of Il Fornaio in Portland, a city he finds similar to his home region in weather (wet) and native ingredients (truffles and the arneis grape). “I love the excitement of cooking, the unpredictable nature it has and the energy it creates”, Osvaldo says as he talks about his love of cooking. “The food of this region is one of my favorites because it utilizes the best seafood and the intense flavors of fresh herbs. I always feel like I am celebrating when I eat the foods of Liguria. Salute!” |
The shining, sun-drenched Mediterranean carves a boomerang strip out of the northern Italian coastline, dominating Ligurian traditions, culture and cuisine. The food of Liguria is defined by its relationship to the sea: a bounty of shellfish finds its way to almost every table; sailors returning from long journeys yearn for freshness and strong flavors.
The daily tasks of Ligurians have not changed for generations. Each day, up and down the region’s coast, an abundance of shellfish is harvested. Fresh mussels of dizzying variety can be found in most every local restaurant and are prepared many different ways. Many Ligurians prefer their mussels served raw, with a splash of lemon and fresh pepper. Ligurians consume enormous amounts of seafood, ranging from prawns and shrimp to clams and calamari. Ciuppin (Ligurian dialect for cioppino) is a seafood stew that combines almost every type of seafood available on the Ligurian coast.
Much of the food of Liguria is the food of the returning seafarer. Voyages would last for months, and the food was bland and repetitive. The food of Liguria is the food of celebrating the return of loved ones. Since the return of seafaring Ligurians was anticipated for months or years, “welcome home” celebrations became an important part of Liguria’s heritage. This celebratory tendency accounts for the prevalence of stuffed dishes in the Ligurian repertoire, items that take time and great care to prepare. I hope that you enjoy these dishes - Pansotti alla Crema di Noci and Le Tomaselle - as we enjoy and celebrate both the spirit of Liguria and your return to Il Fornaio. Buon Appetito !
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Travel Tips:
Be sure and eat at Il Delfino, in the town of Lerici. Owner Gianfranco Davico will greet you and show you the greatest hospitality as he serves Branzino Marinato (marinated sea bass) and Trenette ai Rossetti (rossetti are very small fish, crunchy and crisp, with the incredible flavor of the sea). Gianfranco is the good friend of Gino Giampedroni, Manager of Il Fornaio in Palo Alto. Gino is happy to make additional travel suggestions, just call him at 650.853.3888.
Walk along a footpath that connects the five seaside hamlets of the Cinqueterre. The paths wind among the vineyards, reach deep into the clefts in the hills and climb hundreds of feet above the sea. Buon Viaggio! |
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