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pronounced "MAR-kay" ("The Marches" in English)

 
The cuisine of Marche is unique in that it is really two cuisines: one of the mountains and one of the sea. The fish and shellfish dishes abundant at the coast are not found inland, and the hearty meat dishes of the mountains are not prepared along the coast.

The one element which both cuisines do have in common is that their preparation is based largely on the products of the soil: aromatic herbs, vegetables not found elsewhere, wild greens. Because of this, dishes from Marche do not often become part of any other cuisine.

The coastal cuisine is naturally rich in seafood. Much of the catch brought in at the coast is shipped off to Rome, but the bass caught off of Ancona never make it out of the port, and the best mussels are saved for use in the city. Ancona was founded by the Greeks and is the capital of the region.

“Rough and savory” fits the inland cuisine which reflects the Roman-Umbrian-Etruscan influence. Lamb and pork are commonly used, and prosciutto from Carpegna is famous throughout Italy. The food is simple and most ingredients come from the land. Fennel grows wild, finding its way into many dishes. The fat, fleshy olives found only in the city of Ascoli Piceno are stuffed and served as antipasti. The escarole and dandelion that grow wild are sauteed and made into erbette.

Marche is one of Italy’s less-travelled regions. Urbino is the star of the region, surrounded by green hills as beautiful as those in Tuscany. The Palazzo Ducale in Urbino is one of the finest of Renaissance palaces and contains masterpieces by Raphael and Federico Barroci. The Conero Coast south of Ancona is worth a visit, dotted with charming resort towns and spectacular views. The region of Marche is largely unspoiled by the advances of time - there are no grand hotels or restaurants - and is characterized by a quiet lifestyle and simply prepared, home-grown food.

 
I was born in 1959 in Basilicata, the arch in the boot of Italy. When my older twin brothers left home to attend hotel and food service school, their education stole my attention, and I became fascinated with cooking and serving food. Each time they returned home, I made them teach me everything they had learned: bits of English, how to open a bottle of wine, how to clear a table. In a short time I became my mother’s dining room helper and later, her sous chef.

“I have beautiful memories about our time around the dinner table. My mother loved to cook healthy and delicious meals for our big family (six children, parents and grandparents) and was most happy when we finished our meal. This was a great influence on me when I chose my career; I began working in kitchens in various restaurants in Italy until I met my wife Jennifer in Florence and we came to Los Angeles. After working in many restaurants in Beverly Hills and downtown Los Angeles, I came to Il Fornaio in Irvine. It is probably one of the most authentic Italian restaurants an Italian chef could aspire to work in.

“In Italy, cooking traditions vary from region to region. Just as my mother influenced me with her culture so have chefs from all of Italy. Cooking the foods of Marche is a way for me to discover new roads, to explore new cultures and meet new people. As I study and experiment with new dishes, I see results that please people, and to me that is very rewarding. It is then that I remember what my grandfather taught me so many years ago: to enjoy all that you do, eat well and stay respectful of the seasons. For life is too short not to derive pleasure from your daily tasks. Approach all you do with a desire to improve your understanding of what you experience, and your life will be a happy journey indeed. Thank you for allowing me to share with you my discoveries of the food, wine and culture of Marche.

“Buon Appetito!”